The Ultimate Denim Glossary

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Decoding denim terminology

The pillar behind every wardrobe is a pair of jeans that fit like they were designed just for you. But with more choice than ever, shopping for denim can feel overwhelming.

If your mission is to find the perfect pair of jeans, the first step is to understand what makes each pair special. From the yoke to the rivets, and from selvedge to pintuck, we decode the terminology to streamline your search.

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What are jeans made of?

What is denim?

Jeans are made of denim, a durable twill fabric made primarily from cotton. Traditionally, jeans were 100% cotton. These days cotton is often blended with other materials such as elastane and polyester to improve durability and comfort.

Raw denim

Raw denim is sometimes referred to as unwashed denim. Raw denim is not washed after dyeing, resulting in a denim that is stiff to the touch.

Washed denim

Washed denim is washed after the dyeing process, in contrast to raw denim. This prevents shrinkage and colour bleed.

Unsanforised denim

Not to be confused with raw or unwashed denim, unsanforised denim has not undergone a mechanical pre-shrinking process called sanforisation. This means it will shrink by up to 10% after the first wash.

Selvedge denim

Selvedge denim is a type of high-quality denim that's woven in a particular way that gives it a self-finished, clean edge. It's popular because of the way it fades. You can identify selvedge jeans by checking the inside of the seam on the outside of your leg. You’ll spot a strip of fabric with a distinctive stripe running through the centre.

Vintage jeans

Jeans need to be manufactured prior to the 1980s to be considered vintage. You can achieve the same aesthetic through vintage-wash denim.

Lyocell denim

Lyocell is a semi-synthetic fibre that is made from biodegradable wood pulp. Lyocell blend denim is breathable, lightweight and durable, and therefore very comfortable.

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Denim weight

Denim weight is measured in ounces per square yard and refers to the thickness of the denim fabric. Heavier denim is more durable but stiffer.

Lightweight denim: less than 12oz (407g)
Mid-weight denim: 12-16oz (407 - 542g)
Heavyweight denim: 17oz (576g) and above

Anatomy of jeans

Rivet

A rivet is a small circular piece of metal hardware. These fasteners were originally used to reinforce the corners of the pockets. Today, they mainly serve a decorative purpose.

Bartack

Bartacks are a series of tight zigzag stiches used to reinforce stress points. Often found on belt loops, for example, they provide strength and durability.

Yoke

The yoke (or riser) is the V-shaped section at the back of jeans. The depth of the yoke alters the silhouette of the jeans. The deeper the yoke, the curvier the fit.

Rise

Rise refers to the distance from the crotch point to the top of the waistband. The rise determines where jeans sit on your body. High-rise or high waisted jeans sit near or above your natural waist, while low-rise sit on or below the top of your hips. Mid-rise is anything in between.

Inseam

The inseam, meaning the distance from the crotch to the hem of the leg, helps determine leg length.

Outseam

The outseam is the length from the waistband to the hem along the outer leg.

Five-pocket jeans

Five-pocket jeans have two back pockets, two front pockets and an additional coin pocket that is half-tucked into one front pocket. This is the classic pocket configuration seen on jeans.

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Denim finishes

Wash

Wash refers to the process of treating the fabric to alter the colour, texture and feel of the denim.

Stonewashed denim

Stonewashing is a manufacturing process where garments are washed with pumice stones to achieve a worn appearance.

Acid-wash jeans

Acid wash is a distinctive style of distressed denim that is created using an acidic solution.

Topstitching

Topstitching refers to any stitching that sits on the outer side of the garment and is visible when worn.

Stormwear™

Stormwear™ jeans are made with an innovative water repellent finish to protect from light rain showers, just like our coats and jackets.

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Whiskering

Whiskering refers to faded lines around the crotch and thighs that mimic natural wear patterns. They occur naturally over time or can be created during the manufacturing process.

Pintuck

Pintuck jeans have small, narrow vertical folds stitched down the front of the legs. These decorative features add a refined look and elongate the legs.

Distressed denim

Distressed denim is intentionally made to look worn, aged or damaged through techniques like ripping, fading and fraying. This helps to achieve a vintage-inspired look.

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