Guide to Skincare Acids: From Glycolic Acid to Vitamin C

From the hydrating properties of hyaluronic acid to the resurfacing power of glycolic acid, skincare acids are a potent step in your skincare routine. Most skincare acids come in three categories: AHAs, BHAs and PHAs, also known as alpha, beta, and polyhydroxy acids. Each acid targets a different skincare concern, however they all exfoliate the skin by removing dead skin cells and encouraging cell turnover. Hyaluronic acid, by contrast, is a hydrator, flooding the skin with moisture for barrier protection and all-day suppleness.

Skincare acids come in an array of facial treatments and formulas. Consider your skin type, its sensitivity and your skincare goals when shopping for acids. Remember that most skincare acids resurface the skin therefore introduce new products into your routine slowly and carefully, monitoring for any irritation or breakouts.

If you’ve ever experienced acne or breakouts, then you’ll likely know what salicylic acid does for the skin, but there’s more to this compound than direct spot treatment. Unlike hydrating hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid balances oils and gently exfoliates from deep within the lower dermis. It’s a brilliant addition to the skincare routines of those with oily, combination or blemish-prone skin, however anyone with periodic breakouts can use it. Salicylic acid also helps to banish blackheads – the trickiest of all spot types to treat – creating a smooth, clear canvas for whatever you layer on top of your base.

The best salicylic acids are found in cleansers, facial washes, topical treatments and toners. Cleansers and facial washes should be gently removed with lukewarm water, unless guided otherwise, while topical treatments and toners can be applied with a cotton pad or bud. Avoid using your hands directly onto oily or blemish prone areas as you may inadvertently transfer dirt and oils onto already compromised skin.

You may be thinking "is vitamin C an acid?" and the short answer is yes. Also known as ascorbic acid, vitamin C helps to promote collagen production and works as a gentle antioxidant. It helps to repel environmental aggressors, like pollution and UV rays, that disrupt the skin’s natural balance and contribute to signs of ageing over time, all while enhancing your natural glow. Vitamin C can also help fade dark spots and brighten your overall complexion.

You’ll find vitamin C in topical treatments, serums, moisturisers and eye creams across the M&S Beauty Hall. Vitamin C is best used during the day to protect you while you’re out and about, but creams such as Clinique’s Even Better Clinical brightening moisturiser work overnight to ensure you glow from the moment you wake up. If you’re considering how often to use a vitamin C serum, follow the rule of starting slow and building to daily use.