From nailing dress codes at weddings to building a timeless wardrobe, our ambassador of tailoring gives us his essential views on modern style for men
“What’s in fashion now? I don’t have a clue. But I can tell you what looks good. Paul Newman, Steve McQueen, Clark Gable… they wore what they wanted, they weren’t fashion-conscious. And they stuck to what they knew, what they were comfortable in and what they thought was stylish. They never tried too hard.”
“I wear suits for pleasure. I love them. It’s the simplest thing to put together in the morning. I can’t always be bothered to think about what outfit I’m going to wear, so I know that a suit will be on in two minutes and I can walk out the door.”
“The rules of tailoring have changed a lot. There are so many different variations you can look smart in. We’re a lot more relaxed, employers are a lot more relaxed. If I come into the office in a suit, shirt and tie, I’d feel overdressed. But with a roll neck in winter or a crew-neck T-shirt in summer, in a three-piece I still feel really relaxed. And everyone’s a little bit more at ease around me. I do love dressing up but a full three-piece suit with a tie and Oxford collar are only appropriate for certain events.”
“I do believe you should respect some events, like weddings – so dress up and make an effort. By the end of the evening, usually ties and jackets are off and you can relax a bit. But for a few hours, respect it. I always think it’s better to go over-dressed and then you can rework your outfit when people start taking off their ties. However if you go and everyone’s wearing a tie and you’re not, you’re going to stand out for the wrong reasons. So it’s about considering the location, the dress code and the couple. And if they’ve asked you to wear a morning suit, you should.”
“Men want to look good and we want to do it with the least effort. So, if there’s a classic white shirt, which there is in my favourite Savile Row Inspired style, and I know it fits me well, I’ll buy three of them. And if they’ve got them in a grey or blue, I’ll get those as well. They’re a staple.
“Same thing with a good cashmere jumper or a pair of chinos. Men want to get use out of a suit. Take this three-piece blue one (left) – you can separate the whole outfit. On holiday the trousers would go with a white shirt or T-shirt, and the jacket would go over a pair of jeans – so it can be worn in so many different situations.”
Editor: Ian Wright